Welcome To A Husky In Need

Running Out the Door

Your dog should always be on a leash when not in a confined area. When dogs are frightened in a new environment, they often have a strong drive to “flee.”As the “pack leader” you should always go through the door first. If the dog goes through first without your permission he is claiming the territory he is entering as his own. If you do not have control over the dog before leaving the house you will not have control when you are out of the house. Teach the dog to “wait” at the door. Wait is different than stay. Stay means to stay in one spot in one position, wait simply means “don’t follow.”Wait: In order for a dog to understand what a word means you need to connect the word to the dog’s action. When you go to open a door the dog is typically there waiting for you to open it. Have a soft or small treat available .You should be closer to the door than the dog is. Say, ”wait” and give the dog a treat as you slowly start to open the door. If the dog goes to run out the door make a sharp noise like “eh” and close the door in his face. Wait a second and the dog will be waiting again. Repeat the above. You want to be able to open the door wide enough for the dog to get through while he continues to wait for the command to “go through.” If you are going out with him go through the door first and then tell the dog to “go through.” If you are just letting him out into the yard and not going with him, still make him wait and then say, “Go through.” This exercise requires no obedience training, just persistence. You are using the door as a training tool. This exercise teaches the dog to wait at doors and to only go out when given the command to “go through.”Once the dog understands he only goes through the door when given the command to do so, you can justifiably bait him for running out the door. Baiting for running out the door: Make sure you initially practice this at a door leading to an enclosed area or have a long line on the dog for safety.Set up the situation that would typically cause the dog to run out (such as when someone comes or goes or if the door is left ajar). Hide on the outside of the door against the house with pot lids. The second the dog’s nose comes through that door bang the pot lids in his face or throw them down in front of him without saying anything. The dog will quickly learn that when he goes out the door without permission a thunderous noise comes out of nowhere. Teach the dog that coming to you is not negotiable by teaching the dog “here.”“Here” is a word dogs immediately associate with being given something and can be used before the dog has learned “come.” It is especially useful for dogs that have learned to ignore "come.” “Here” means to come to you so you can hold his collar. Start directly in front of the dog using an extra special treat. Simply say the dogs name and “here” giving him the treat and holding his collar. Pair a sound such as two clicks of the tongue with the treat and it will eventually take the place of the treat. Then release the dog and say ”free.” Gradually build the distance between you and the dog until he immediately comes from all over the house, and then start from the beginning in the yard. Nothing negative should ever happen to him when he hears “here.”

Living with a pet might be a joy, but not everyone appreciates your pet as much as you do. The dog or cat that you cherish dearly may well be perceived as a nuisance by some visitors or neighbors. Whether you live in a house or apartment, there are some steps you should take to become a good pet-owning neighbor.
Confine Your Pet
For your pet's safety, it's best if our pet is confined to your property. Pets that roam free often encounter dangers from motor vehicles, toxins, other animals, or from unappreciative neighbors. Although you may think it is beneficial to let your pet out to wander, if he gets into your neighbor's garbage, dig up their garden, or eliminate in their yard, it doesn't do much to foster good neighborly relations. Your neighbor may try to have your pet picked up by a shelter (where the pet might be put asleep if there is no proper identification) .

A really angry neighbor may even try to harm your pet.
Teach your pet the boundaries of your yard, provide a fenced area, or let him out only under supervision. If your pet is neutered or spayed, he/she will be less likely to wander. When you walk your dog, be sure to pick up any feces he leaves behind.
Control Excessive Barking
Excessive barking is a common behavioral problem and a nuisance to your neighbors. You may not even be aware of the problem until someone tells you. Barking often signals that your pet is frightened, bored, or has separation anxiety. Chewing or other destructive behavior may also occur. Whatever the cause of the problem, even the most tolerant neighbors will have a low threshold for a pet that barks all day or all night, or one that breaks through the fence and digs up their yard. If you suspect your pet is behaving in an anxious manner, try leaving the house for a few minutes as you would in the course of your normal routine. Then quietly come back to the house and see or hear if he is engaging in any anxious behaviors. If your pet is exhibiting any of the aforementioned behaviors, a visit to your veterinarian may help define the problem and he/she will likely be able to offer a solution to help modifying these behaviors. There are many training methods available to teach your dog not to bark once the problem has been identified.
Teach Your Dog Manners
It is a dog's nature to be social, but having a few basic manners in place will help friends, neighbors, and visitors to enjoy your pet's company. Discourage jumping and overly enthusiastic greetings. Dogs can inadvertently knock over children or elderly people, who can be frightened or injured as a result. Teaching your dog to sit, stay, come, and walk properly on a leash is as essential as teaching a child to read and write. A dog that behaves well is more apt to be included in social.. Dogs that behave badly or are hard to control are often excluded from social settings and this often worsens behavior problems. Dogs should never be allowed to engage in play-biting with people, beg from the table, or to dominate furniture or room space. Do not allow such behaviors to develop by firmly discouraging them from the start. In addition, it's well worth taking time to socialize your pet to people and other animals, so that he can learn to be comfortable and confident around them.
Give a Friendly Caution
If despite your best efforts you know your pet has a tendency to bite or guard, urinates submissively, or jumps up, calmly inform visitors before they approach your pet. Such cautions may circumvent injury or embarrassment. Many animals just need a few minutes to feel comfortable around people they don't know in order to calm down enough to accept petting and praise. Work with your dog for a few minutes every day to correct behaviors that are troublesome and destructive. It is a dog's natural tendency to please and be a part of the family "pack." Use that desire to your advantage when teaching your dog how to behave.

Dogs chase cars for the same reasons they chase kids on bikes, cats, small animals and other dogs: They are either playing a game or they are hunting. To a greater or lesser degree, chasing involves a dog's natural prey drive.In most socialized, well-adjusted dogs, prey drive expresses itself as a canine tag game, in which the dogs take turns being "it." The object isn't necessarily to catch the other dog; the real fun is just running around. Chasing balls or Frisbees is another outlet for dogs' prey drive. Dogs may play-fight as part of the game of tag, lunging or even snapping playfully at one another during the chase. This form of play may extend to include cats, joggers, people riding on bicycles or skateboards, or cars. The intent is not to hurt or kill, but to engage the other creature (or thing) in a game .A more serious form of chasing is the hunt. Some dogs have a higher prey drive than others. Sporting, herding dogs, terriers, Siberian huskies and hounds have enhanced prey drive; they have the potential to chase and kill their prey. The sequence involves searching, stalking, chasing, catching, biting, killing and eating. Such dangerous behavior is called predatory aggression, but it's not a disorder or and is not engaged in out of anger. It's a natural behavior that's triggered by movement.
Predatory aggression has few warning signs. The dog slides up to the intended victim silently until it is within range, and then launches the attack – nipping at heels, biting, hanging on in an attempt to drag the victim to the ground. The consequences of such an attack can be deadly to the victim. If your dog shows a heightened prey drive, he should be under your control at all times for his own safety and for the safety of the general public. He may need to undergo behavior modification as well. For more information see the article on predatory aggression.

Alpha

When visiting clients for private consultations or during the first orientation class we do for our Pet Dog class one of the myths we have to often dispel about dog behavior is the Alpha Myth.Many of us were raised on the myth that we have to be Alpha and yes, we do. The misunderstanding is how we do this and what actually being Alpha means. I have often been asked this type of question in the context of “I need to be at the top of the pecking order. Unbeknown to class members who say this it actually generates a small internal chuckle as there is much more known about pecking orders than dog dominance models.There have in fact been hundreds of studies done on chickens and there complicated “pecking orders” within the social groups. The research is fascinating to read and I find it amazing that there has been very little empirical research done on dog social groups and their hierarchy considering many more of us own dogs than chickens. Previous assumptions on dog social hierarchies, dominance models, were developed from short term studies of wolf packs in the 1940s. These studies were a great start but did not recognize that wolfs are distant cousins of dogs. Hundreds of years ago dogs and wolfs took different forks in the road and have adapted to different environments, the wolf to the wild and the dog to a life of domestication. Because of this dogs and wolfs are very different animals living to different social rules in different environments. Dr Ian Dunbar spent nine years studying the social behavior of dogs during a 30 year study performed by Dr Frank Beach at Yale and UC Berkeley. Specific focus was devoted to the social behaviors of a dog pack. In layman terms the findings of this research showed that male dogs have a rigid hierarchy, females have a hierarchy too but with much more variation and when the two are mixed together the males try to follow the structure, often with difficulty, as the females make their own rules up depending on how they feel any given day. Within this social structure it was found that puppies have a “puppy license”, they get away with almost everything until they are about four months of age when it is quickly revoked. Most importantly to pet dog owners the study showed that there is no physical domination, top ranking dogs accomplish things using psychological harassment, ritual behaviors that the pack responds too. Most alpha dogs rule benevolently and because they are so confident in their position there is no need to fight or squabble. In fact the squabbling and scrapping is done by the middle ranked animals that are insecure and want to advance over other middle rank animals. So Alpha means to control the resources, something we can all do with our pet dogs without using physical corrections, alpha rolls or verbal abuse. Take your dog to training and using positive methods you can establish yourself as the alpha, apply the NILFF mantra (nothing in life for free). Have your dog work for their treats, their dinner, and their toys confirming once again that you control the resources. Reward all the wonderful things your dog does and not only will you assert yourself as alpha you will develop a trusting bond with your dog that will ensure you have a well balance social order where everyone feels secure, trusted and happy.©Niki Tudge 2008

Talking to Your Pets
March 16, 2008 | By Admin In Article, Behavior, Tips |
Many devoted pet owners talk to their pets on a regular basis. Dogs and cats love the sound of their owners’ voices, and hearing them, especially in warm conversational tones, is very soothing and comforting. By deliberately talking to our pets as we do whatever we’re doing is a way of teaching them a bit of our language. Most dogs and cats can pick up on the words that are really important to them, like “dinnertime.”We generally talk to our pets in a gentle, friendly way when we’re just chatting about the day. We’re not concerned about communicating anything more than “I enjoy your company.” We’re not asking anything of them, nor expecting a response. Dogs and cats are generally relaxed during this kind of chat because they don’t have to understand our words; they just know they’re being included.When we’re actually trying to get something across to our pets is when it gets more difficult. What we may not be so aware of is that since our pets have limited capacity to understand our speech, they are mostly attuned to our tone of voice. This is easy for us to understand when we put it in context of a foreign language. If someone speaks to you in Japanese, you can generally gather, by tone of voice, whether she is asking for help, angry with you, warning you of danger or trying to sell you something.Dogs and cats come from much simpler worlds, where their mothers used very basic sounds for training. A subtle growl was a warning to behave or of pending danger. A short, high-pitched bark from mom dog or a trilling sound from mom cat meant, “Hey, I brought you some food!” Most mammals are naturally inclined to slow or stop when hearing a low sound and motivated to get active when hearing a high sound.Notice when you talk to your pets in a higher voice, they perk up, become attentive, and may get excited. Talk to them in a low voice, slowly, and they may stop and wait cautiously to see what’s going to happen next. If you are trying to train your dog to sit and stay and are having no luck at it, it could be because you are saying a perky “sit!” or “stay!” But the tone of your voice is communicating, “let’s play!” Instead, say a low and drawn-out “si-i-i-t” and “staaaaay.”Conversely, you may be saying “come” in a low, commanding voice, thinking that will compel her to obey. To your dog, your tone may be a cue to stay right where she is or even back away thinking she’s in trouble. But say “come!” in a higher pitched voice and it sounds like an engraved invitation with a liver snap inside.Source - Yahoo Pets
UNDERSTANDING CANINE SEPARATION ANXIETY
Dogs, as descendants of wolves, are social animals. As social animals they form cooperative groups through which they can increase survivability via more efficient hunting, defense, and rearing of offspring. In order to maintain group cohesion, canines have an innate need to form attachments to the other members of their group. For the wild or feral canine, a group consists of other canines, but for the domestic canine humans typically comprise the group. Thus, the formation of attachment between the domestic dog and its humans is a fundamental and essential part of its existence. In fact, the creation of this bond is one of the main reasons dogs have become domesticated.To encourage and strengthen attachment, dogs experience distress when they are separated from all other members of the group. The distress response is characterized by increased vocalization, futile activity such as pacing, panting, salivating, destructive behavior, urination, and defecation. Often, a frantic attempt to return to the group by destroying perceived obstacles also occurs. This distress response is present from birth, as is evidenced in the response of a puppy taken away from its mother and littermates, and remains throughout life. In the wild or feral state, dogs are never separated from every other member of the pack. They may divide into smaller groups or pairs or one may be left behind to care for the puppies, but never is a pack member not with at least one other member of the pack for any significant length of time. Unfortunately, modern human society necessitates in most households that dogs be left alone at least part, if not most, of the day. Many dogs adjust to this separation LEARNING to suppress the distress response. Independent breeds and independent individual dogs learn to do this more easily. Other dogs because of a more dependent inherent personality, prolonged human contact as a puppy with a subsequent sudden separation, a previous abandonment, a frightening experience when alone, etc., continue to display this NORMAL canine response to separation. It is important to stress that the distress response to separation is a normal canine response. Dogs that do not express this response have learned to suppress it. A dog exhibiting distress upon separation is simply an untaught dog not an abnormal or behaviourally aberrant animal. Let me stress this again -- DOGS DISPLAYING DISTRESS UPON SEPARATION ARE NOT BEING DISOBEDIENT OR BEHAVING ABERRANTLY. THEY ARE DISPLAYING NORMAL CANINE REACTIONS TO BEING ALONE. Even though it is a normal canine behavior, it is an unacceptable behavior in today's household because of the stress upon the dog , the risk of self-inflicted injury, the destruction to the dog's environment, and the impossibility in most situations for the dog to never be left alone. The behavior term that is given to this distress response in modern veterinary behaviour medicine is separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is characterized by a variety of behaviours that occur when the dog is alone or in the process of being left alone. There are also associated behavior that occur when the owner is with the dog. Some of the more common characteristics of separation anxiety are barking, whining, pacing, panting, salivating, inappropriate urination and defecation, depression, refusal to eat, and destructive behavior when left alone. Often the destruction occurs at windows and doors, ie, places of egress from the house. Oftentimes these behaviors will start as the owner prepares to leave -- the sound of keys, certain articles of clothing like shoes, picking up a briefcase, etc. are all signals that the dog has come to associate with the owner leaving and these events will initiate the behaviors. Some dogs even go so far as to try to prevent the owner from leaving even to the point of aggression. Typically, dogs experiencing separation anxiety will display excessive greeting behaviour as well as constant attention-seeking behaviours. The key to differentiating separation anxiety from the merely destructive, barking, or improperly housetrained pet is when the behaviours occur. Usually, dogs with separation anxiety are model dogs -- very obedient, housebroken, and nondestructive -- when not alone. If constant companionship is not an option as is typically the case, then what can be done? Dogs must be taught that separation is a normal part of their life and that the distress response that accompanies separation needs to be suppressed. In addition, preventative measures can be taken to encourage independence and facilitate the suppression of the distress response when separated. The old adage that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure is very applicable with separation anxiety. Many times, households acquire a puppy or new dog at times when they will be home for extended periods of time such as summer vacation when children are out of school, holidays when adults are not at work, etc. The puppy or dog has constant companionship and then suddenly it is alone for 8-10 hours a day. It has not been prepared or taught how to be alone. Is it any wonder that the puppy or dog experiences distress? Therefore, starting the first day the puppy or dog is brought home it should spend time alone. The "time-out" preferably should involve something wonderful like a new toy, chew, or bone in order to equate being alone with something pleasant. The length of time and intervals between being left alone should be varied and gradually increased to the length of time that the puppy or dog will be routinely left alone. It is also imperative to resist the temptation of making a big production out of leaving and returning. A simple pat on the head and a treat is a sufficient good-bye and hello. In addition, constant attention-seeking is a sign that the individual dog is more prone to displaying separation anxiety. Extra care must be taken to teach these dogs to be more independent and tolerate being left alone. Once separation anxiety has developed and become established, it is a very long and time-consuming process to eliminate the behaviour. The dog must be TAUGHT to suppress the normal distress response to separation. To do so, training exercises must be implemented to give the dog a default behaviour to do instead of exhibiting the distress response. The most common default behaviour is the sit-relax or down-relax behaviour. The goal is to teach the dog to relax, rewarding calm behaviour and thereby replacing the distress with relaxation. Once the dog has been taught to relax in a non-stress situation, the level of stress in the situation is gradually increased with the continued relaxed behaviour rewarded and reinforced. For example, initially the dog would sit-relax with the owner beside it, then the owner would move to the end of the leash, then across the room, then to the next room, then out the door and back inside, then out the door for 10 sec, 1 min, 5 min, etc. This slow, gradual training process continues until the dog can be left alone and remain relaxed for the desired period of time. To facilitate the process by relieving some of the anxiety, Clomicalm (drug name chlomipramine) is often given. The drug does not eliminate or cure the behavior it merely facilitates and enhances the real cure which is the training process. Like any behaviour, the longer and more intensely a dog exhibits separation anxiety the slower and more difficult will be the training process to eliminate the behavior. Treating separation anxiety is very time-consuming, labor-intensive, and often frustrating. But the reward of achieving a distress-free dog is well worth the time, energy, and effort.If your dog experience separation anxiety please contact your veterinarian about treatment.
Curing separation anxiety‏

Sometimes the relationship between owner and dog is taken to a level above and beyond what is healthy. What results is called separation anxiety, when a dog become incredibly stressed when its owner leaves it by itself. This can be a very serious issue for dogs. They’ll then soil the floor, destroy property, and pretty much go nuts in your house until you return. They don’t soil, destroy and go nuts out of spite for you, and that’s the most difficult thing for pet owners to realize when trying to confront the issue. They do these things because they don’t know how to function without your company. They have relied on you for every move, and when you’re gone they lose all ability to be sane. There are two main reasons dogs experience separation anxiety. They are either too passive and rely too much on you, or they are too dominant and they think they own their territory. The latter experiences a different kind of anxiety when you leave. The dominant dog thinks of you as its subordinate, so when you leave it wonders how you’ll survive without it. That stresses the animal. A passive dog thinks it needs you there at every moment of its life or it doesn’t know what it should do and how it should act. That’s when it goes crazy. It will pee and poop on the floor and lose all control of what you taught it for the simple reason that it doesn’t know how to act when you’re not there. The worst thing you can do when trying to remedy the problem of separation anxiety is to scold your dog after it has caused problems in your house. If you scold it, it will think your arrival is what has been bad. Instead, when you see that your dog has acted unacceptably when you return, you should talk slightly disappointedly to your dog. Act as if you know it can do better but spanking and yelling at your dog won’t help. To cure your dog of separation anxiety you must overcompensate for its dominance or passivity. If your dog is passive, you must make it feel more independent. Give it less attention than it usually gets. When you arrive home, don’t spawn over it for a long period of time. If your dog is dominant, you need to discipline it and give it more attention and put the animal in its place.
A passive dog needs to be able to think on its own more frequently. Allow it to do things on its own that you have always done with it. Of course, the first several times you do this you need to keep a close eye on it, so you can step in if something goes awry. Overall, give it less attention than you normally do. Let it do things on its own more often. If your dog is too dominant, you need to make sure you spend more time with it. Make sure it knows who’s in charge and you may have to yell at your dog once in awhile when it does something you don’t want it to. You need to take more of a fierce control over the life of your dominant dog. Separation anxiety with pets is something that can be cured. But it does take time. But if you abide by these rules for several weeks and months on end without giving in to giving more attention to the passive dog and letting the dominant one do whatever it wants, then you should start to see success.

*Destructive behavior

The most common complaint with young dogs is destructive behavior. Destructive behavior is usually an easy problem to solve because it is directly related to supervision. When a dog is with you, he'll consistently be reprimanded when he picks up your belongings and SHOULD be consistently rewarded for playing with his own toys. When you dog is not with you, he can be safely confined in a puppy proof area of your home or yard. If you are gone for long periods of time you may have difficulty confining the dog adequately while still providing sufficient exercise and enrichment. Consider having a dog walker come during the day or installing a dog run or enrolling your dog in day care at a kennel that can provide a stimulating environment for a growing dog. There are many reasons a dog may destroy your belongings. For example, puppies that are not supervised will explore anything. If it smells good, tastes good or feels good they will play with it. By play, I mean chase it, kill it and eat it. If no one is nearby to say, "Stop that", the behavior continues. Destructive behavior can also be attention seeking behavior. If running around with your shoe causes you to drop whatever you are doing to chase the dog, then your dog is using the destructive behavior to get your attention. He may benefit from a vigorous exercise program or positive attention from you for desirable behavior. Actively reward a dog with attention for playing quietly every chance you get. Your dog may also benefit from a leadership training program to teach him that all things in the house belong to you. Another cause for destructive behavior is a desire to reach something outside the house or room or fence he is confined to. If the destructive behavior is centered around doorways, windows or fences, your dog may have a problem with territorial or predatory aggression and may be reacting to a trespasser such as the mail carrier or a neighbor's cat. I have observed squirrels park on an outside window and work a dog inside a house into a frenzy. This barrier frustration usually usually occurs whether you are home or not. Finally, some dogs panic when left alone. These dogs are not destructive when supervised and are house trained. But when left alone, even for just 30 minutes, they wreak havoc in the house. These dogs can be suffering from Separation Anxiety. This is a specific form of destruction related to insecurity which can be handled with separation training.

*Is your dog bored
Dogs have a much better time of it these days. No longer do they have to while away hours in the doghouse outside; they are more often kept indoors and treated like family members. But, although we may have changed our attitude toward our pets, we have changed our lifestyles, too, and we are now less available.Frequently both parents work away from home and the kids are at school. So, although dogs no longer have to battle the elements outside, they do have to contend with being home alone during the day, sometimes all day, with little to occupy their time. From the owner's point of view, the home may be ideal: plush rug, elegant furniture, and chic décor, but dogs do not appreciate such environmental refinement and would by far prefer to be socializing with people or other dogs, or chasing a blowing leaf outside.Like children, dogs have an agenda that is subtly different from that of adult humans, and have likes and dislikes that can be diametrically opposed. Some "Type-B" personality dogs may nap during their owners' absence, arising lazily with a yawn and stretch upon their return. Other more compulsive "Type-A" dogs may suffer extreme boredom and stress during their owners' absence. The telltale signs are easy to see: the garbage can contents may be strewn across the floor, cupboard doors opened, food stores raided, paper or pillows shredded, and so on. While there is a well-known syndrome of separation anxiety, the bored dog scenario is distinct from separation anxiety and represents the sometimes ingenious attempts of a dog that is "bored out of his mind" to find something time-filling to do.In attempting to distinguish between a dog with separation anxiety and one that is just bored you should ask yourself the following questions:
*Did you acquire your dog from a shelter or pound?  *Has he had multiple owners?
*Does he refuse to eat when you are away?                 *Did you get him when he was over three months of age
*Does he appear anxious as you prepare to depart?   *Does he whine or bark after you have left? 
*Is he aVelcro dog?(Does he follow you constantly) *Does he destroy things ONLY in your absence? 

*Does he urinate or defecate ONLY in your absence *Does he greet you over-exuberantly when you return?  

Signals Dogs Use
Although a dog can't speak and has no hands and fingers for gesturing as humans do, you can watch key parts of his body to determine how he's feeling and reacting to the world around him.
Face. Although the dog's facial muscles are not as refined as a human's, he can wrinkle or straighten his forehead to show confusion or determination. If your dog wants you to give him further direction, he may raise his eyelids quizzically and tilt his head to one side.
Eyes. A dog's eyes brighten when he looks at a creature he considers friendly and when he wants to play. If he is afraid, his pupils dilate and he shows the whites of his eyes. He averts his eyes to avoid confrontation. But if he is angry or ready to defend himself, his eyes narrow and follow your every move. At this point, it's particularly important not to look the dog in the eye because he sees that as a challenge to defend his position.
Lips, teeth and tongue. A relaxed dog in normal posture may let his tongue loll out of his mouth. If he wants something from you, if he is happy or wants to play, he may pull his lips back in what appears to be a smile and show his teeth, an expression, by the way, dogs show only to humans and not to other dogs. But beware the dog that bares his clenched teeth and wrinkles his nose. He is ready to attack.
Ears. The dog's sense of hearing is much more acute than ours and even dogs with floppy ears have the ability to move and turn them to follow sounds. If a dog's ears are raised, he is relaxed, listening, or showing acceptance. If they are back, he may be signaling submission and deference or may be frankly fearful.
Tail. A dog wags his tail when he is happy or wants to play. It is really an  indicator. When he is submissive, he tucks it between his legs. A taut tail, held down rigidly behind him, may show that he is prepared to spring since he uses his tail for balance when jumping.
Voice. Dogs are vocal animals. They yip, bark, whimper, howl, and growl. The pitch or volume of their sounds can increase with their level of emotion. A bark may be playful or aggressive. Unlike body signals, dog noises can mean different things from different dogs.
Posture Speaks Volumes
When two dogs meet, as long as their human companions aren't tugging tight on their leashes, they carry out a series of actions that looks like a choreographed dance. With their bodies tense and tails taut, they circle and sniff each other, silently gathering and exchanging information, ready to defend themselves at any moment if necessary. They hold their ears back and the hair on their back may stand on end. They often avoid direct eye contact at first, sizing each other up to determine if the stranger is strong or weak, male or female, hostile or non-hostile. One dog may place his head on the nape of the other's neck or nip at his nose. It seems they are getting ready to fight and then, one lies down. Soon, they may separate and urinate. At this point they have agreed on which dog is dominant.
Dogs learn body language from their mothers during the first 8 weeks of their lives and they test out this form of communication with their littermates. If a dog misses out on such training, he will have trouble communicating with other dogs throughout life.
Normal posture. The dog appears alert with head held high. His tail moves freely. His jaw is relaxed.
Invitation to play. The dog happily signals his desire to play by wagging his tail and dipping down into a "play bow." His front legs are in a crouch and his backbone swoops up, leaving his rear haunches high. His head is held up expectantly to capture your attention. He may raise a front leg or lean to one side with his head.
Submission. The dog crouches down further and still appears relaxed. He may lift a front foot as in a play invitation, but his ears are back and his tail is down. He may yawn, scratch, or sneeze, which is meant to calm him and the dogs or people confronting him.
Fearful aggression. A dog who is afraid tenses his body and holds his tail rigid, though it may be wagging. His rear legs are ready to run or spring. He bares his teeth, draws back his ears and the hair on his back stands on end. He growls or snarls constantly to warn off the subject oof his anxiety
Dominance aggression. Teeth bared, this dog stares you down and advances confidently with his tail wagging slowly and his ears in the forward (alert) position.
Total submission. The dog drops his tail and curls it between his legs. He drops his head to avoid eye contact. He rolls over on his side and bares his belly, with one hind leg raised and urinates. If he isn't afraid, he'll tilt his head up a bit and raise his ears to show trust.

Ever wonder why dogs chew on things?  Even better, why do they chew on expensive things (like the $10,000 cherry wood dining set or the $150 pair of dress shoes or $250 purse)? Well...there are several reasons for dogs chewing on things.
1. Puppies and juvenile dogs learn about their environment by mouthing and gnawing on objects. Typically the targets are random, and may include shoes, books or bedposts. Investigational or "play-related" destructiveness of this kind is a normal behavior for a growing dog.
2. Some adult dogs chew out of boredom or because they are upset when "abandoned" by their owners each morning. In frenzied efforts to escape the house or find her owner, a dog of this persuasion will dig and chew at doorways, windowsills and curtains. She may also search for shoes, pillows, purses and other personal items to chew on.
3. Other dogs may chew because they have a nervous personality or they have some phobia. If your dog suffers from thunder phobia, she can cause dramatic damage to your house on stormy days.  In addition to thunder, your dog may develop fears of fireworks, wind, and a variety of other noises.
4. Finally, dogs chew because it is "FUN". The solutions to stop chewing will vary based on the dog and the reason for the chewing. But one simple time tested solution is to give them something to chew on. There are a number of excellent "chew toys" in the market. I like the Kong® brand toys, that are durable and strong. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes (you can even hide treats in many KONG toys).
You can get these toys on-line and in many stores including

Puppy Necessities: Before bringing your puppy home, purchase the following supplies. Preparing in advance for the arrival of your new pal will allow you and your puppy to spend time getting to know each other.

Food and Water Bowls: Look for a bowl that won't easily tip over and is easy to clean. A separate bowl for food and water will keep your puppy's feeding area clean. You may want to buy smaller bowls at first, and upgrade to larger ones as your puppy grows.

Collar: There are a variety of lightweight collars available for your puppy. Some have buckles and others snap. Regardless of the collar style you choose for your puppy, remember to attach an identification tag listing your puppy's name, your address and phone number. Your puppy's first collar should be made of lightweight nylon or leather. To measure your puppy's collar size, measure his neck and add two inches. To ensure that the collar fits properly, you should be able to slide two fingers between the collar and your puppy's neck. If your fingers fit comfortably, you have the right size collar. If there is extra room, you need a smaller size. If both fingers don't fit, the collar is too small. It may take a while for your puppy to get used to wearing his collar, so don't be discouraged if he is uncomfortable and scratches his collar. Be sure to adjust the length as your puppy grows.

Leash: Leashes come in a variety of styles – such as leather, nylon and retractable—and in variety of lengths. A six-foot leash is the ideal length for both training and walking. Always keep your puppy on his leash unless he is in a confined area. Many states and cities have leash laws, which make it mandatory for your puppy to be on his leash at all times, even at public parks and playgrounds.

Grooming Supplies: Make sure you have the proper grooming tools. These will differ depending on your puppy's coat. For shorthaired breeds, use a brush with natural bristles, a rubber currycomb or a hand mitt. A sturdy wide-toothed metal comb and perhaps a mat splitter are needed for longhaired breeds. Be sure to include a flea comb in your grooming supplies, and begin by establishing a weekly grooming program with your puppy as quickly as possible.

Toys: All puppies need toys to help them exercise and to provide them with a safe way to satisfy their natural desire to chew. Be sure to choose toys that are made for puppies and cannot be splintered, torn apart or swallowed. Large rawhide chips, nylon chews and hard rubber balls are fun and safe. As a general rule, if the toy can fit comfortably in a puppy's mouth, it's too small.

Your puppy's Toy Chest should be free from the following items:

·         Sponge toys or items with hard, sharp points or attachments, such as squeakers, which can break off and be dangerous if swallowed.

·         Shoes or other personal clothing. Giving your puppy these items will only teach him that it's okay to chew your shoes and rip holes in your shirts.

·         Balls of string, yarn, cellophane, twist ties, plastic baggies and other household goods that could get lodged in your puppy's throat causing him to choke or suffocate.

·         Children's toys made of soft rubber, fur, wool, sponge or plastic. If your puppy swallows a small particle of any of these materials, it could cause digestive problems.

Puppy Food: Start your puppy on the right track with the essential nutrition of a balanced puppy food. For more information on feeding and nutrition, visit our Products section.

Crate or Sleeping Bed: Your puppy will need a warm, comfortable place to sleep. A crate provides a den for your puppy when you are not home. Crates usually come in one of two types: a portable, enclosed, plastic crate with handles; or a wire crate. Your puppy's crate should be large enough for him to stand up, turn around and lie down and should have adequate ventilation. If you buy an adult-sized crate, purchase partitions or place a cardboard box in the back to provide a cozy space for your puppy. You may want to have a separate sleeping bed for him when you are at home. Make sure you buy a puppy-sized bed rather than an adult-sized bed, so your puppy will feel safe and snug. For more information on crating read our article on house training.

Stain and scent remover Conventional household products may mask the odor to humans, but not puppies. Specially formulated stain and scent removers are needed to take the odor away from a puppy's more sensitive nose, as well as yours. If you use a conventional household product to clean up after your puppy, don't be alarmed if he keeps repeating himself at the same spot. He's merely trying to mark his territory.

Book on puppy care Place this handy reference guide on a shelf in your bedroom, den or kitchen. You never know when you'll need a quick answer Puppy Proofing Your Home Before bringing your puppy home, you'll need to "puppy proof" your house. Puppies are like babies: they want to explore every corner of your house, and they want to put everything into their mouths.

Poisonous household items Make sure all poisonous household items are securely stored out of the puppy's reach. Place all household cleaners, insecticides, fertilizers, mothballs, antifreeze, insect poisons, rat poisons and other items in cabinets or on high shelves. Remember, as your new puppy grows, he will be able to explore higher places and be tempted to jump up on shelves.

Check your plants Many plants in and around your house can be harmful to your pup. Did you know that the pits of apricots and peaches, as well as spinach and tomato vines, can make your puppy sick and, in large dosages, can even be fatal? Click here to learn about the plants that should be kept away from your furry companion. For a more complete list of plants that are dangerous to dogs, consult your veterinarian.

Take a Puppy's-Eye View Get down on all fours and look around. Are there any dangling electric cords, loose nails, plastic bags or other tempting objects that will be in puppy's reach? If there are, be sure to put them away immediately.

Keep your toilet lid down Puppies are often tempted to play in toilet bowl water. This can be a hard habit to break and toilet cleanser may be harmful if swallowed.

Some Additional Tips

·         Never leave your puppy unsupervised inside or outside, and keep him off balconies, upper porches and high decks where he can slip through openings and fall.

·         Unplug, remove or cover any electrical cords in your puppy's confinement area. It is also a good idea to cover electrical outlets, when they are not in use.

·         Keep buttons, string, sewing needles, pins and other sharp objects out of your puppy's reach.

·         Tying ribbons around your puppy's neck could choke him if the ribbon gets caught on a fence or other object.

·         A good rule to follow is that anything that is not safe for children is not safe for pets.

http://www.proplan.com/media/dog/GiveDogHome.pdf Welcoming Your Newcomer: Helping your new friend adapt to his new home will be easier if you plan ahead. If you have all the puppy's basic needs in place you can focus on introducing him to his new surroundings and begin his training. Do your shopping in advance. If your choice is a puppy, you'll need a collar and leash, a crate (a great aid in housebreaking) , brush or hand mitt for grooming, toys that will be safe for the puppy, a bed for the puppy, as well as non-tip able, easy-to-clean food and water bowls. For more information, see our Puppy Necessities article. If the puppy is to be housed outdoors, choose a well-insulated doghouse large enough to accommodate the puppy at its full-grown size. It should be located on a high, well-drained site protected from the wind. Choose a location that provides outdoor shade during the summer. You'll want the proper diet on hand to meet the special nutritional needs of your rapidly growing newcomer. We suggest Canidae all life stages dog food Select a veterinarian for your new puppy as soon as possible. Ask dog-owning friends and neighbors for recommendations. Choosing a veterinarian who is located nearby is a convenience and saves time if an emergency should occur. The best time to bring your newcomer home is at the beginning of a weekend. If possible, add a few vacation days. This gives you time to acquaint your puppy with its new home and to begin housebreaking and other training. Make arrangements with the person from whom you are getting the puppy as to the time you will pick him up. Avoid bringing home a new pet during busy times such as birthdays and holidays. Family members are generally too busy with the festivities to devote adequate time to help a puppy become comfortable in his new home. Ask that the puppy not be fed prior to pick-up time. This helps avoid the puppy's becoming car sick on his way to its new home. Once in his new home, remember that your puppy needs to adjust to strange new surroundings and people. Children can become especially excited. Explain to them that their new companion needs time out for naps. Show children how to pet the newcomer and the proper way to pick him up. A puppy should be closely supervised and taken outside to relieve itself after eating, following naps and play periods. As soon as possible after you adopt your puppy, take him to your veterinarian. At this time, a schedule can be worked out for needed vaccinations to protect your newcomer from a number of viral and infectious diseases. He should also be examined and treated, if necessary, for external and internal parasites. Bring any immunization information you may have received when you adopted your puppy to your veterinarian to begin a case history for future reference. It's a good idea to keep your own medical record. You may need it for reference if your pet's veterinarian is not available. Choose a name for your newcomer and use only that name in calling the puppy. In teaching a puppy its name, as in all training matters, 100 percent cooperation of all family members is essential. When a puppy is sent mixed signals, he can become confused and not respond to any of the contradictory signals. Remember these key words and you'll enjoy your new friends for years to come: Gentleness. Care. Patience. Consistency. Praise. Love

Living Needs
Many Siberian owners have been successful in keeping their dogs dogs indoors or outdoors and or both but compromise has always been the rule here. Ideally, Siberians would chose to live outdoors but many times this may not be possible. Many have been kept successfully in city apartments. This requires a great deal of extra effort, tolerance and flexibility, particularly during puppyhood, and anyone who cannot stand dog hair all over everything several weeks a year, rowdy games in the house and daily walks through rain and snow, should consider another breed. Siberians crave company and an indoor dog usually spends more time with people than an outdoor dog, so if given careful training and regular outdoor exercise, indoor dogs are often better behaved and more in tune with humans. An indoor dog should have an area of its own where its bed and water dish are kept. If it can be confined to this area at night and when left alone, several problems may be avoided. No dog should run loose, least of all a headstrong Siberian. A dog does not suffer from confinement as many people believe, and will almost surely live a longer, safer, healthier life and keep its family on better terms with neighbors if kept in a secure enclosure. A fence about six feet high with concrete or strong wire mesh at its base should surround this area which may include the entire property or only part of it. Siberians can tolerate extreme cold, and surprisingly, do not suffer in hot weather. They need a dry, draft-free shelter in Winter and Shade in Summer.
Dogs and Children Safety
A PETCO Companion Animal Care Sheet developed with and approved by a Qualified Veterinarian
The relationship between a dog and a child can be magical, but it's not automatic. Prevent upsetting or tragic situations by teaching your children and your dog how to behave together.
How Dogs Think
Dogs are pack animals, meaning they live in a group with a strict social structure. When a dog joins your household, he needs to learn his position within your family "pack." He is always testing to see if he can move up in rank. For safety and comfort, everyone in the family needs to be higher in the pack order than the dog. Pack leaders eat first and walk ahead of other pack members. Pack leaders defend the pack and make the rules. The leader, or alpha dog, disciplines the lower pack members by nipping or growling to remind them he is in charge. A dog that knows his pack has a strong leader and is secure in his position in the pack feels secure, accepts the pack rules, and lives happily.Children often have a more difficult time establishing and holding their position in the pack, at least in the dog's eyes. A dog is often eye level with a toddler, and this can be frightening to both him and the child. Or, he may view the child as a littermate, equal to him in height and social position. He may feel he has the right to discipline the child when he or she tries to take his food or toy, or plays too rough. Training both the dog and the child is essential to ensure safety and happiness.

Children and the Family Dog
Teach your children to respect the dog and realize that he is not a stuffed toy. He is a live animal that feels pain when hurt, has emotions, and has physical needs that must be met. Kids may unknowingly tease a dog by waving a toy around and snatching it away. Hitting with a stick or pinching an ear may cause a dog to snap, even though the child didn't intend to hurt. As a rule of thumb, don't allow children to do to a dog what you would not allow done to a toddler.At the same time, the dog must learn his manners and not play too rough, put his mouth on an arm, jump up, or knock kids over. Avoid games of tug of war and keep-away. Good games for children and dogs are fetch, learning tricks, practicing obedience.Put the dog in his crate for a short while if he starts to get out of control. Protect the dog from children who do not treat him gently or follow your rules. He should be allowed some time out to rest when he has had enough. Make sure that children understand that the crate is his private area. Do not allow children to play in or on your dog's crate, and never allow a child to crawl into the crate with the dog. This could cause the dog to feel trapped, and snap out of fear.Teach children to always speak to a sleeping dog before touching him. He might bite to defend himself before he realizes who you are.Children can help feed and clean up, but don't expect them to take sole responsibility for the dog's care. Dogs are family pets, and everyone should be involved in his care.
Children and New Dogs
Establish the house rules and enforce them from the day your new dog or puppy arrives. Be sure the entire family is consistent and uses the same rules (PETCO offers Care Sheets regarding this topic). Eventually, even little kids should be able to give obedience commands and have the dog obey. A small child should never be left alone with any dog. Allow them to get used to each other from across the room or yard. Your children may act differently than other children have acted with them. Allow him to keep his distance until he is comfortable rather than letting kids corner him or force him to be petted or hugged.If you are going to have a toddler in your life, prepare your dog now. When children are not present, take some treats and practice handling your dog. Gently hold your dog's tail for a moment, then as you release praise and give the dog treat. Hold a paw or an ear the same way. This way the dog will associate such actions with good things.Don't relax your supervision because things are going well. Your new pet will go through a adjustment period of several weeks. He will be on his best behavior while he tries to figure out the rules. Once he settles in, he may get tired of a child's poking or pulling, and might nip to discipline. This is the way a dog would discipline another dog that has gotten too pushy. It is natural canine behavior, but unacceptable in a human family. In situations like this, the dog always loses, often being given up at the nearest shelter.Be careful not to make your children jealous by giving the new dog too much time and attention. They may retaliate by punishing the dog when you're not there.
Children and Unknown Dogs
The majority of dogs are friendly, wanting petting and interaction. But not all dogs are friendly, and it's important for your child's safety to know what they should do when encountering a dog of unknown temperament.Prepare your children for an encounter with a strange dog. Talk about and act out different situations. Teach your children how to approach and pet a dog. Use a stuffed toy and guide their hands at first.
Introduce yourself to owner and dog:
When they meet a dog they don't know, have them ask the owner, "May I please pet your dog?" If the owner says yes, it is often better to scratch the dog's chest rather than patting the top of his head.
If a dog seems afraid or backs away, leave him alone. Let him approach you, and don't force him to be petted. Don't allow kids to put their face right in front of any dog's face. Never try to kiss a dog!
Know what an angry dog looks like:
Barking, growling, snarling with teeth showing, ears laid flat, legs stiff, tail up, and hair standing up on its back. When you see a dog like this, keep your hands in your pockets and slowly walk away sideways. Don't look in the dog's eyes, and don't run. Screaming and waving your arms around (a natural response for a child) will cause the dog to chase. If a dog attacks, curl up in a ball on the ground and protect your face with your hands.
Know when to stay away:
Keep a safe distance from a dog that is eating or chewing on a bone. Some dogs will snap if you get too close because they are afraid you will take their food away.Don't go near a mother dog with puppies. She will try to protect them from strangers, and even a normally friendly dog could bite.Stay away from a dog that is chained or in a fenced yard. The dog may bite to protect himself because he can't get away. He doesn't know you won't hurt him. Don't shout, run around, or reach at dogs through open fences or windows.Never try to break up a dogfight. Teach your children to stay away from the fight and find an adult to help.
Know what to do when bitten:
If bitten, your child needs to tell an adult right away. Try to remember what the dog looked like, if it had a collar on, and where it went. Wash the wound with soap and water. Take your child to a doctor. Bite wounds easily get infected